Sewing Tools

If you're ready to add to your costume authenticity by some hand sewing, you may need to add a few items to your sewing box.

• sewing box, a place to keep all your dandy tools
• sewing bird, hemming bird
• hand needles
• thimbles
• beeswax
• pincushion
• emery 
• awl
• grommet setter
• self-covered button kit
• thread scissors or snips

You're probably already familiar some of these items. 

You should already have hand needles. I covered some basic stitches in How Authentic Do You Want To Be? 

If you're doing hand stitching, a thimble will be both an asset and an annoyance, depending on how you learn to use it. Thimbles are used not only to push a needle through difficult or many layers of fabric, but to keep you from hurting yourself. Sewing through heavy fabric can really wreak havoc on your fingers. All sorts of materials can be used to make thimbles, but you probably won't want to use a decorative china thimble for a lot of sewing. Metal thimbles are standard and less breakable than plastic ones, although those can be a good substitute. (Not, of course, if you're doing handwork at a reenactment or faire.) Thimbles do come in various sizes, so be sure you get one that fits. You may also want to get a leather thimble. It's more adjustable, plus, due to its flexibility, you can grab the needle more efficiently.

Beeswax is used to keep the thread from tangling and to move through the fabric more smoothly. You can wax the thread either before or after you've threaded your needle. Just run the thread through the beeswax and you're done.

A pincushion will give you a place to keep your needles and pins. Pincushions come in all kinds of styles,although these days we're most used to the ones shaped like tomatoes. Sometimes they come with a strawberry attached. The strawberry usually contains...

...Emery. This is used to keep your needles and pins sharp and free from rust. Nowadays most needles and pins are made of stainless steel, but you'll still need to sharpen them from time to time. A sharp needle pierces the fabric more efficiently. 

An Awl is used to ream holes in eyelets. If you're making corsets or anything that requires lacing, you'll be making eyelets. You may ream the hole before or after you install the grommet (unless you're stitching them by hand using the buttonhole stitch). 

A Grommet or Eyelet Setter will help you safely squeeze the two halves of the grommet or eyelet together with the fabric sandwiched between them. Grommets will make a sturdier hole support for lacing than the buttonhole stitch, but it's up to you which you choose. There are two types: the tiny one that is available with a set of eyelets, used if you aren't setting a lot of eyelets or grommets. If you use lots of grommets, you may want to invest in a grommet setter/hole punch with a rotating wheel. This is not only quicker and easier on your hands, but allows you to set various sizes of grommets with just one setter.

Self-covered button set. These are usually available at the fabric store. You can find them with the setter included, or get a refill set that has just the buttons. I've had mixed results with self-covered buttons. My observation is that they work best with thin fabrics. However, you can use them with velvet if you cut the circle of fabric larger and skip the backing completely. I'll be doing a post on buttons soon with instructions on how to make self-covered buttons. 

The sewing bird or hemming bird is like a third hand. (Indeed, one brand calls it Third Hand!) During the Victorian Era, these little tools were sometimes shaped like actual birds. Nowadays they're simpler, but they do the same thing. You attach the sewing bird to a sturdy table or to the arm of a chair--whatever it will fit. Turn the screw until it holds firmly. Then you fasten the fabric into the clip and it will hold it steady for you while you work the seam or the hem. Another neat usage for the sewing bird is to hold strands of thread or yarn for braiding. I've braided raffia using mine, and it works great. (It does slip on occasion, but that's easily remedied.)

Thread scissors are small, like embroidery scissors, which you can use for that purpose. You can also use a tiny shear to clip threads, especially if you're reenacting. 

We'll talk about scissors, shears and rotary cutters at another time. How you cut out your fabric is a matter of personal preference. Most likely you won't be cutting out fabric pieces during a reenactment. However, if you are, there are antique-style scissors and shears available out there. 

I hope you enjoy your hand sewing!