Adapting Garments

Happy Tuesday!

Today, I'm discussing an aspect of costume that is great for beginners: adapting clothes you already have to a particular costume period.

Obviously, some clothes are more adaptable than others. You won't be able to take a t-shirt and jeans and turn it into anything earlier than the mid-to-late twentieth century. However, those same jeans, if plain enough, can work for a laborer's mid-to-late nineteenth century costume. Levi's 501 button-front jeans would be the best choice for that, as zippers weren't generally available in men's trousers until the 1930s. That was also the decade in which zippers were first promoted in children's clothing, as a way for children to be independent and easily dress themselves.


First, choose your era. If you're reading this blog, you've probably already done that.
I decided on 1880 for this adapted costume because we were visiting Tombstone frequently and hanging out with friends who reenact the shootout at the OK Corral. (I never got to do any reenacting, but that's beside the point.)

I chose for the upper element a lightweight cotton print dress. It already had several elements going for it

• a squared neckline, which was the standard in the 1880s. 
• a lightweight fabric that would be easy to manipulate
• a lapped zipper to which I could sew buttons, making it appear to button up the back (another standard of the 1880s)
• a princess-seamed bodice

Not only that, but it more or less matched the long pleated skirt a friend had given me. 

The actual work involved was simple. I sewed plain white buttons onto the zipper lap. Then I gathered the skirt up each side to create a polonaise, sewing by hand and securing the stitches so they wouldn't come loose. This I wore over a long-sleeved blouse with a high neckline and stand up collar, plus the long skirt. Instant 1880s costume. Would it satisfy a dedicated living history reenactor? Probably not. However, it has the look and the feel, and for this costume, at least, that's enough.

I made the hat from some craft felt, lace, and some shoulder pads, then added a purchased bird ornament. If I get enough requests, I may do a post on how to make hats from shoulder pads! 

So, choose your period, and then look for clothes you may already have that can adapt to that period. You may be surprised at what you already own that, with a little imagination and a bit of sewing, can become one of your favorite costumes!

Fabrics, Part 1

The very earliest "fabrics" were skins and furs. I'll write more on those later, as the methods of their preparation is vastly different from other fabrics.

The fabrics of first handmade manufacture are the woolens and linens, so ancient that they are mentioned in the Bible. Cotton cultivation came later, along with silk, which, due to the difficulty of obtaining it during the Middle Ages, became very popular among the royal, noble and wealthy merchant classes of Europe.

Wool is sheared from living animals, especially sheep, goats (cashmere), camelids (camel, alpaca, llama, etc.), and musk oxen (quiviut). Primarily, however, the term "wool" refers to fibers sheared from sheep. (See below for a discussion of the "other" wools.) Sheep's wool is easily dyed, another plus. One of the earliest methods of forming fabric from wool is felting, where the wool is washed in hot water with some sort of soap and then rubbed by hand until the fibers mat together. Modern methods achieve this with machines, but you can still make your own felt today, either by using wool fabric or natural wool fibers.

Linen is made by gathering the stems of the flax plant, then soaking them until they swell. The process is called retting. Once the fibers are free of the outer stalk, they can be dried and woven. No good modern method of creating linen has been successfully developed, which is one reason why linen is so expensive.

Cotton is another ancient fabric, which, unlike linen, was made both in the Old World and the New. Harvesting used to be a time-consuming process, as did removing the seeds from the fluffy fibers of the pod. Eli Whitney's invention of the cotton gin, to remove the seeds by machine, greatly simplified the process, reducing the cost in the 19th Century.

Silk, according to legend, was discovered when a silkworm cocoon dropped into the teacup of a Chinese princess. If true, she must have been amazed at the long, lustrous, single thread she was able to unwind from cocoon. History records that the Empress Si-Ling-Chi was raising silkworms by 2640 BC. The only insect-produced fiber has many different variations in the weaves, one of the most popular of which is silk satin.

Ramie is another natural fiber, sometimes called China grass. It behaves somewhat like linen. Nowadays, it's often blended with other fibers, notably cotton and silk.

The "other" wools come from a variety of fur- or wool-bearing animals. Goats give us mohair and cashmere. Camel hair comes from (of course) camels. Other members of the camel family provide alpaca, llama, guanaco, huarizo and misti (crosses between alpaca and llama, the camelid versions of a mule and a hinny), and vicuña. Angora comes from angora rabbits, which are clipped just like sheep, only much more frequently. (No harm comes to the angora rabbits!) Quiviut is taken from the soft underwool of musk oxen.

Depending on your costume time period, you may choose one or more of the fabrics made from these fibers. In a future post, I'll also discuss historic fabric blends (such as linsey-woolsey). In the meantime, while you're doing your research, I recommend the following books:
Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide
Fabric Science, Fifth Edition
A History of Costume